Seat belts are one of those items that we assume are all the same, but they are model year and manufacturer specific.

Beginning in January of 1964, seat belts were required by federal law for the driver and front passengers. So, the auto manufacturers began to offer vehicles with front seat belts standard and the rears could be added as an option. Starting in 1966, all production cars got front and rear belts.

Standard seat belts usually had a black plastic buckle while optional Custom or Deluxe seat belts had chrome buckles and a better retractor system. Just about every year the belts changed with the model changes. The buckle style, button logo and the even the fabric belt webbing was different from year after year. To add more confusion, the belts were made by several manufacturers: Irving, Robbins, General Safety, DAAL, Bay Trim and a few others. Some of these manufacturers only made the deluxe belts, others made the standard, and some made both. Some manufacturers produced belts for specific assembly plants.

Each of the manufacturers had many assembly lines under one roof, so identification of the products was a must. This was done by the tag on the belt. This tag tells the part number, manufacturer, model number and gives the date the belt was manufactured. Plus, the tag is specific to the year, make, model and style of the belt. Each manufacturer also stamped the web bracket that holds the belt to the floor with a two-letter code, and the buckles and chrome inserts are slightly different from each manufacturer.

What all this means, is that there is a lot to look at before you mix and match a set of seat belts to make them into a matching set. The material may not match and it is pretty hard to put together different date codes and have a matched set. The belt had a date code, but so did the chrome buckle and the top cover. While many of the parts spanned more than one year, the date code was specific. In this restoration, we are putting tags on a complete set of ’72 GTO seat belts to make them a matched set. In ’72, there are fewer belts than the previous year, since the front lap belt and shoulder belt hooked into the same buckle to eliminate one lap belt per side of the car. It is confusing, but some pictures and captions will go a long way toward helping your sort it all out and learn what to look for when you’re replacing your Pontiac’s belts.

2 Over the years, the tags can become dirty, torn and stained. The black belt will clean up well with some soap and water, but the tag will never come clean. The tags are belt specific. Next to the “GM” is the part number of the belt, below this is the manufacturer (Hamill) and below this is the model number of the belt and the big letters is the date code. This is the 11th month of 1972 (or November 1972), and the C is the assembly line the belt was manufactured on. Some belts also have this additional tag that cross references the belt to other cars.

3 Inline Tube’s new seat belt tags cost $39 and were custom made for this application with a specific date code and manufacturer. It came as a set and we specified the date code of May 1972. They have templates for many cars and all the different manufacturers. If they have not made yours in the past just photocopy or e-mail a picture of one of the old tags and they can be custom made.

4 The set also has instructions so you know which tag goes on what belt. From the factory, the belts came as a matched pair that was latched together. So, the lap belt was latched with the shoulder belt and the retractor belt was latched with the other lap belt, and all have the same model number. The tags also have the adhesive on the back so you can stick them, then sew them on.

5 The new tag is placed in position using the old tag as a reference. We have two sets of belts we are working from, and we are using the old belts as reference for the new belts. It is a good idea to take pictures of the belts before you take the tags off. It is easy to mix up the tags and belts.

6 We lay all the belts out and stick each tag in place before we sew. It can be confusing where the tag goes and on which side, and how far from the end of the belt. We again are using a second set of belts as a reference.

7 With the label stuck in place, we are ready to go to the sewing machine. The adhesive on the back was there to hold the tag in place so it did not move around before it was permanently fastened to the belt.

8 Pay attention to the old tag so you know which direction to sew it on. Some tags were sewn vertically and others horizontally, depending on the manufacturer. There are a few extra tags in the set so you can practice before you work on the final piece.

9 This project can be done with any home sewing machine. We are using a jeans nettle and black button thread. This may be a great time to get your wife (if she knows how to sew) involved. There are not many projects that can bring you and your wife closer while working on your car.

10 Slip the belt through the machine then flip it and repeat. You can adjust the stitch length to match the factory original. I like to start the machine and feed at a constant speed so there is a consistent lead in and run past the tag a few inches so it is straight and even.

11 The thread is now cut at the edge of the belts and you can move on to the next belt.

12 Your finished belt should look like this. For more information on the different year belts and what the tags should look like, Eric White has all the graphics and descriptions for ’64-’74 GTOs in his GTO Illustrated Identification Guide.